Fotos by Frank email: flong@optonline.com

Working with me:

Thing I need to know before we start:

How comfortable are you with your body? Are there parts you are proud of? Ashamed of? Just ‘ok’ with? This effects how you’ll respond to certain poses, and if there are parts you really don’t like, I’ll arrange poses to minimize them. However, keep in mind that just because YOU don’t like a certain part, it doesn’t mean that other people don’t like the same part. I’ve had models tell me they hate their (whatever), and it just happens to be the feature that prompted me to ask them to model.

Can you move well? Are you flexible enough for posing? Some positions require more agility than others do. If I know ahead of time what your limits are, it will make a more comfortable shoot. How good are you at taking direction? Do you know right from left? In from out? As silly as it seems, some models get confused when they get in front of the camera. All directions will be given from your POV – not mine. So, when I say “Move your left leg a bit in,” it means YOUR left leg towards you, not the leg that’s on MY left.

How much nudity are you willing to explore? None? ‘Tasteful’ nudity? Explicit nudity? I need be aware of your limits before I plan the shoot. Also, consider images with you holding a towel or scarf in front of you – technically, a nude photo, because you won’t be wearing anything else, but it will not show anything to the camera.

If you have any body scarring, let me know. We can either shoot around them, or work out a way to conceal them. If you have piercings or body art, now is the time to tell me. Neither look very good in most glamour photographs (although they may be de rigure for some fetish shoots), and depending on placement and size, they may effect if you’d be a good model for me for a given type of shoot.

Are you sensitive to any creams, lotions or oils? For some shots, I may ask you to rub some baby oil or coconut oil on your skin (makes it glisten nicely on film), or I may spray a glycerin mixture on you – looks like drops of water or ‘sweat’ – and doesn’t evaporate under lights. Shaving cream, whipped cream, skin lotion and (occasionally) water paints are other mediums I will use on a shoot. Let me know now if you have any sensitivity to these substances, or otherwise object to their use. If other substances are going to be used, I will let you know in advance.

Preparing at home -

Some basic tips to help you get ready for a shoot:

Use a moisturizing cream on your entire body the night before the shoot.

Shave your legs and underarms no sooner than 4 hours before the shoot

Use a little bit of talcum powder on them to help soothe irritation. Please wipe all talcum power off before you arrive

Do not use powered or white deodorants – some leave residue that shows on film

Do not wear any tight fitting clothes for at least 4 hours before a shoot. This includes bra and panties, and shoes and socks (it takes a long time for those skin impressions to disappear). Some of my models usually wear loose dresses or sweats with rubber thongs or clogs to come to a shoot.

If you trim or shave your bikini area, do so no sooner than 4 hours before the shoot. Again, a little talcum powder helps with the redness and irritation. Wipe it off before the shoot.

As strange as it sounds, keep the bottoms of your feet clean! Dirt on them shows clearly on film

If you tan, DO NOT tan the day before a shoot. Red skin does not look very attractive on film. Also, tan nude, or at least topless. Tan lines are quite obvious, don’t look good on film and will identify you as an inexperienced model. Try tanning beds if you want a tan but don’t have anywhere with the privacy for nude sunbathing. Also, DO NOT use quick tanning or sunless tanning products. Even with care, they look streaky.

The “LOOK”

Makeup –

The camera LOVES makeup! I prefer makeup applied lightly– basic foundation, subtle eye shadow (NEVER BLUE), and lightly applied eyeliner and blush. Occasionally, I'll have a professional makeup artist for a shoot, but most times, consider doing your own.

Match your foundation to your skin tone, especially if you have a deep tan. Also, use a damp sponge to blend the foundation at the neck line.

Use at least 3 coats of mascara, using a lash comb to separate lashes. Nothing looks worse than clumpy eyelashes in portrait shots.

Use translucent powder to ‘set’ your makeup, not as a foundation or concealer.

Please have at least this basic makeup on before you arrive.

Bring with you:

Two or three different shades of lipstick, plus clear lip gloss – at least one bright red lipstick. Try to coordinate with your nails.

Lip pencils for each lipstick, but one shade darker

Your basic makeup, for retouching, or if I want a slightly different look

To do your lips, use the pencil to draw in the outline, following the natural line of the lips. Remember to use a pencil a shade or two darker than the lipstick. Then, using a brush, fill in the outline with the lipstick. Apply a coat of clear gloss to seal the color.

Also, have a ‘concealer’ that can be used as a base to touch up other skin blemishes. Your normal foundation can be used to blend it in with the rest of your skin tone. Finish off with a bit of translucent powder. If I have specific makeup requests, I’ll let you know before the shoot.

Ask for my ‘makeup tips’ sheet if you want more information.

Nails –

Please have fingers and toes painted the same solid color – reds and oranges show up VERY well on the film I use. Pinks and neutrals do not. Don’t be afraid to use bright blues, greens, or purples if they match what you will wear. Don’t use pastels or metallic colors. Do not have decals or other designs on them. Do try to coordinate with outfits. When in doubt, use bright red. If we are doing shoots featuring hands, fingers or toes, the nails must be FLAWLESS!

Hair –

For the most part, leave it down. Bring ‘scrunchies’, rubber bands, hair clips or whatever in case we decide to do your hair differently. Also, bring a brush. Working in the wind can wreck havoc with hair. Remember that women with long hair have so many more options than shorthaired women. Unless otherwise requested, don’t go and get a new ‘do’ or have it styled just before a shoot. First, I probably want your hair the way it was, two, if we are working outdoors, it may not hold up long and it becomes a waste of your money, and additionally, if we do any water shots it will get wet, again ruining the styling. Your best bet is loose and free, without any hairspray on it. Do bring a portable curling iron (they make propane fueled ones) if curls are an interegal part of your “look”. There are no outlets at outdoor locations.

EXCEPTION: While bright red looks great on color film, it looks jet black on black and white film. Instead of red-toned makeup, use blue-toned shades instead, like purple. The colors you choose must be on the bluer side of the spectrum. Use violet or mauve blush instead of red or pink. I'll let you know if we're shooting color or B&W beforehand

Outfits -

At a minimum, please bring the following:

1 or two bathing suits – thongs and g-strings preferred - one 2-piece if bringing more than one

Cutoffs (the shorter, the better) and jeans or coveralls

Two or three tops – cropped tops preferred, and some that button or tie

One or two pair of thong or g-string panties with bras

Sexy lingere with stockings and garters, or thigh-highs

One or two translucent or sheer tops – at least one you won’t mind getting wet

Oversized white men’s dress shirt

At least 2 pairs of dressy, high heeled shoes – open toed or sandals – and preferably with ankle straps and not platforms.

One short dress and/or mini skirt and top

One clingy dress that shows off your figure

One favorite outfit

We won’t use everything at the first shoot, but it gives me a range of things to pick from. The more to pick from, the better off we are. Try to color coordinate things – some colors work great – and you can almost never go wrong with black. Don’t bring a top and bottom of almost the same color, it looks bad on film (the exception is denim). Use a contrasting color instead (red top with blue skirt, instead of top and skirt almost the same shade of blue). Also, try to keep things on hangars and wrinkle-free – creases in clothing are very apparent on film. In the studio, it may be possible to touch things up with an iron, but that can’t be done if we’re shooting on location. And, remember, glamour photography has little to do with current fashion. Some of the best glamour pictures taken offer no clues as to when they were taken. Using a lot of current fashion can date an image. Makeup will date a shoot too, faster than anything else. The most common mistake some photographers make is to dress the set and model in a “period”, and then use contemporary makeup. This is why I want a very basic makeup look.

Jewelry –

Unless specifically asked for, DO NOT WEAR JEWERLY! However, do bring a couple of your favorite pieces with you. Small chains and necklaces do not work well and actually distract from the picture. Bracelets, anklets, “belly” chains, chokers and large bead necklaces work well for some shots. Let me know what you have, so I can try to include them in some shots. Sometimes, a necklace looks better looped around an ankle, or wrist. Earrings are great, as long as they don’t distract from your face. Bring several pairs of different lengths.

Other props and items to bring –

Use your imagination! While I do have my own prop chest, there may be personal items, which you would be more comfortable posing with. Not all shots require props, and often maybe only a couple of shots in a set will use them. Let me know if there is anything you really want to pose with. At the very least, bring a pair of sunglasses. Don’t forget a towel, especially when shooting on a beach. A plastic bag is great for carrying around wet bathing suits or clothing. Also, find yourself a vinyl cushion. Great for sitting on, and it won’t leave marks on you afterwards.

What to expect at a shoot

While I can’t say this happens with every photographer you will work with, this is the way I like to run shoots. First off . . . . The goal is to produce the best quality images of you possible. To do this, I have to provide you with a comfortable environment in which to work. I will try to have an assistant with me, usually a woman, and often a model herself, although, this is not always possible. I will try to provide a space for you to change costumes in private, although, this isn’t always possible at some locations. It will always be provided in a studio setting. For your own comfort, you may bring a friend along to sit in on our session. Just be warned, that he or she may be asked to sit in another room during the shoot, or be put to work holding reflectors at location shoots.

*** A WORD ABOUT ‘FRIENDS’ AT SHOOTS ***

If you bring your boyfriend, husband, or other intimate friend along with you, at no time will their intereference be tolerated! If he (or she) has an issue with the nature of the pose or of cosutume or anything else, you will both be asked to leave You should inform them of the type of the work that you’ll be doing, and if they have objections, then either find someone else to come with you, come alone, or don’t come at all. I don’t have time to deal with petty jealousy.

Back to the shoot . . . .

The first thing we’ll do is go through the outfits you brought. This gives me a rough idea of how to plan the shoot .We’ll discuss the order of costume changes and your input is welcome. The first outfit I’ll usually pic is either your favorite outfit (if this is your first time posing), or a swimsuit. I’ll give you a few minutes to change and then we can start. I may also ask for makeup adjustments or hair changes at this time. The first roll will ususally be short – 24 exposures. This give you time to adjust to my style and any studio lighting in use. Also, some models (even some VERY experienced ones) need a few minutes to ‘warm up’ to the shoot. This is usually the quickest way to do it. Once that roll is done, I’ll have you change into the next outfit. (Outfit changes do not always coincide with film changes). I have specific images in mind, and will direct you though them. If I ask for a pose which is physically unable for you to do, let me know and we’ll try something else. Again, if I ask for a pose that exceeds your personal limits, let me know. I will not force you to go beyond what we’ve agreed to. Also, if you start to lose concentration, let me know and we can take a short break. I’ll be shooting 36 exposure rolls at this time. If I complete the images I want, I may ask you if you have any specific poses that you’d like with this outfit, or I may just ask you to ‘freestyle’, meaning, just create poses while I ‘snap’ away (sort of like what you see on TV). As you get more experienced, freestyle sessions are easier and easier (as you learn more poses). I will always attempt to verbally describe a pose, and if that fails, I’ll demonstrate it for you (the best I can). It may take a few attempts to get the look I want. I will try to avoid touching you – and if I have to, I’ll ask permission first. This will usually occur if you’re in position, and I notice hair out of place, or want to readjust an article of clothing without you losing the position. Initial sessions should not last more than 2-3 hours, depending on how quickly I can get you into a pose, how quickly you can change costumes, and if there are no technical problems. Location sessions can last longer, depending on where we’re shooting, how much intereference we get from bystanders (pretty women and/or photo shoots always draw a crowd) and how much Mother Nature cooperates. Also, setting up equipment and takes longer outside.

Tricks of the Trade

A little known modeling secret: If you have puffy eyes, a little bit of hemorrhoid cream rubbed on the area will reduce the puffiness.

Other tips:

Once you apply your makeup, especially your lipstick, only drink through straws – it keeps it from ‘cracking’ and the lipstick from smudging and needing retouching.

Once you apply your lipstick, apply a layer of clear gloss over it. It prevents smudging and looks ‘wet’ on film.

Any time you extend your legs, ‘point’ your toes in the same direction – it creates a stronger ‘line’.

When possible, position your hands so that they are slightly curled. Looks much better because it gives depth. Study pictures in fashion magazines to give you the basic hand positions (there are only so many ways to hold your hands so it looks 'natural')

Unless otherwise directed, try to keep you hips at a 45 degree angle to the camera, especially when standing. This has a slimming effect on the hips and defines the waist better.

PLEASE don’t wear perfume; it attracts bugs outdoors.

DO bring sunscreen (at least SPF 30) for outside shoots, as well as insect repellent.

PLEASE DON’T drink any alcoholic beverages before a shoot. The same goes for any other mood altering substance.

Please try to complete costume changes as quickly as possible.

When outdoors in bright sun, it sometimes helps to close your eyes and turn your head from the camera for a second to relax your eyes between shots.

Common terms (A basic glossary):

Artistic nudes - Usually done in B&W, parts of the nude model are photographed under different lighting conditions and perspectives. Extremely impersonal, in many cases, just the model’s torso is used in the finished image.

B&W – Black and white

‘Chrome - Indicates a color film, usually slide film (From Kodachrome)

Environmental nudes – Impersonal style characterized by a stark, barren or nature setting, in which there just happens to be a nude figure.

Erotic Nude - Often used as a polite term to refer to the explicit posing of the model, where the explicitness adds context to the image. A very fine line exists between erotic nudes and ‘pornography’. Erotic models tend to be paid more than basic glamour or figure models.

Fetish – Actually, anything can be considered a fetish, but usually used to describe images of models in leather, latex or PVC clothing , parts of body (usually feet and shoes), bondage, or graphic depiction of bodily functions. May involve nudity, but not a requirement.

Glamour Photography – A style of photography that is intended to emphasize the face and body of the model, usually enhanced by clothing. Usually a “personal” style, meaning the model is looking directly at the camera. Basic glamour styles are ‘swimsuit’ and ‘fitness’ and nude. Swimsuit is model-oriented and uses swimwear to show off the model’s figure, usually in a suggestive way. “Fitness” modeling not only emphasizes the model, but the definition of his/her physique.”Nude” is sort of what it sounds like, but may not involve total or explicit nudity. All styles, however , may involve direct or implied nudity

Model’s release – Effectively, a contract between the model and photographer that allows the photographer to use the images resulting from a photo shoot as he pleases, in return for providing the model some sort of compensation. Compensation can either be money, finished copies of prints, or anything else of value to both the photographer and model. Photographers cannot publish or display images of models without a signed release, so they will not work with models that won’t sign a general release. This is also why photographers require models over the age of 18, so they can legally sign the release themselves.

Nude photography – The main difference between nude and glamour photography is that in the former, the model is totally nude, or partially covered with a drape, whereas in glamour photography, any nudity is usually created by the positioning, opening (or removal) of clothing. In general, these tend to be more ‘impersonal’ pictures, meaning the model is not looking directly at the camera, although there are a lot of ‘personal’ nudes, too, usually when the image is for a specific loved one.

Portfolio - Usually between six and twenty pictures of you, displaying your modeling range. They should all be professionally done by at least 3 different photographers. Your prints should be at least sized 8x10, although the new international standard for portfolio prints is now 9x12. Keep them in a ‘portfolio case’ and protected from spills and other damage.

Tear Sheets – If images of you are published anywhere (magazines, for example) stick copy neatly in the back of your portfolio (called tear sheets because you ‘tear’ your picture out of the magazine).

Test Shoot – Before investing the time and effort in a new model, the photographer will agree to shoot a few rolls of film of the model. Sometimes the photographer and model split the processing and printing costs of this shoot, and divide the negatives. Sometimes, the model is either given a print or two, or a small fee. However it works, it must be specified in the model’s release.

Time for Prints - A good way to develop skills and a portfolio. In return for your modeling time, the photographer will give you prints for your portfolio instead of an hourly (or session) fee. Most photographers will offer this to new models the first time they set up a session.

ZED card – also called ‘composite cards’. Nothing but a collage of images of you so that prospective photographers can see at a glance your range of modeling skills. These cards are usually no more than the size of a standard postcard, and can be mailed to prospective photographers and agencies.